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On the surface, Airlie Beach still retains much of its relaxed backpacker feel.Yet this gateway to the 74 Whitsunday islands and the Great Barrier Reef has emerged out of the shadow of the island resorts to become a high-end tourist destination in its own right, evolving from a little hideaway to a sought-after playground for the rich and famous, which jet in and sail out. Exclusive enclave developments such as Sydney developer Rory O'Brien's Whisper Bay, which is due for completion next year, are pulling in the cashed-up southern punters. A horde of the well-heeled have already bought in to the $280 million project (also offering marinas for the boatie buyers) including ex-PM Bob Hawke, shipping multimillionaire Owen Glenn and former rugby league turned TV star Matthew Johns.

A slew of new resorts are underway or on the drawing board. Then there's the Port of Airlie, which will feature a 400-berth marina, heli pads, ferry and two resorts along with residential and retail developments. These days a million bucks won't get you anywhere near the water, with the average house price hitting the half-million mark.